The preparation of dukuna brings back memories of my childhood of going to the river (ghaut) to collect Chainy bush. I can remember the huge boulders (stones), the slippery stones and the water flowing.
I recall the time our Duke of Edinburgh group went on an expedition and decided to rest at Trants’ Estate outside the old plantation house ruins. We prepared dukuna on site as our leaders sat and talked about old jumbie (ghost) stories.
I have to admit until now I never thought about where dukuna originated. However, I can assume that given the ingredients; sweet potato, sugar, ginger, coconut and also given the virtue of how it is prepared; grass roots preparation wrapping in dasheen bush (chainy bush) suggests a slave innovation for them to make best use of what they had to eat.
According to the dictionary of Caribbean English usage dukuna is called ‘dukana‘ in Antigua, British Virgin Islands, St. Vincent, blue-draw(er)s in Jamaica, Boyo in Belize and Jamaica, Cankie in Guyana, Conchi in Nevis, Conkie in Antigua, barbados, St. Kitts, corn-dumpling in St. Kitts, dokunu in Belize and Jamaica, pemi in Tobago, Trinidad, Pone in Jamaica. There are varying mixtures of ingredients all wrapped in a leaf. Ingredients
1 lb sweet potatoes, peeled (grated)
1 cup of coconut (grated)
1 cup of brown sugar
¼ cup vegetable oil
¼ cup flour
1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1 table spoon of ginger
1 teaspoon ground black pepper,
Directions
Peel and grate the potatoes .
Place them in a bowl of cold water to prevent discoloration.
Remove (with a knife) the hard layer of the endosperm (coconut).
Grate coconut in a large bowl.
In a large bowl, combine coconut, potatoes, ginger and oil.
Stir in the sugar, black pepper and salt to taste.
Gradually mix in the flour.
Divide the dukuna mixture into a plant leaf such as elephant ear leaf(chainy bush)/banana leaf/ sea-grape leaf wrap with banana palm strings (use aluminum foil if you do not have leaves).
Pour water into a large pot and bring to boil.
Place the completed dukuna in water.
Cook in a covered pot for 1 ½ hour on medium heat.
Untie and enjoy. Serve hot or cold.
The preparation of dukuna brings back memories of my childhood of going to the river (ghaut) to collect dasheen bush (Chainy). I can remember the huge boulders (stones), the slippery stones and the water flowing.
I have to admit until now I never thought about where dukuna originated from. However, I can assume that given the ingredients (potato, sugar, ginger, coconut). Also given the virtue of how it is prepared; grass roots preparation wrapping in dasheen bush (chainy bush) suggests a slave innovation for the slaves to find something to eat.
When one thinks of heritage words that come to mind are: inheritance, birthright, custom or tradition. Today our national holiday is a day that we Montserratians cannot help but think of our Irish heritage which dates back to 1630; when the Irish Catholics came from nearby St. Kitts to colonize Montserrat. Other Irish settlers came directly from Ireland and Virgina, USA.
In terms of our heritage we have struggled. In 1768 the slaves tried to free themselves and met with tremendous adversity. The slaves’ efforts to gain freedom will not be forgotten and the spirit of our ancestors still prevails in all Montserratians and as such is the essence and the foundation of our celebration. The parallel is that we the people of Montserrat have today come to terms with the past; as we now struggle with a virulent volcano.
Traditions of our Irish past were preserved in many ways, for example:
Places/villages – such as St. Patrick’s, Rileys Corkhill, Kinsale, Farrells, Banks, Sweeney’s, Estates; Gages Estate, Farrell’s
Estates – Galways, Blakes.
Names of mountains – Reids Hill, Hodges Hill
Shorelines – Carrs Bay, Bransby Point, Trant’s Bay
In our social graces; for example we still never pass someone on the street without speaking to them.
Today we will make a special effort to literally connect the past to the present by serving Irish dishes: stew yard fowl, duckna, salt fish and johnny bakes, mackerel, goat water, pig feet souse, cassava, stewed pigeon peas and dumplings. We will be visiting homes, writing poetry, reconstructing slave huts as we dance with “an infectious syncopating rhythm.” We will be drinking bush tea, wearing our National Dress, exhibiting local arts and crafts, engaging in folk rituals and singing with a spirit of self-determination and celebrating our freedoms. St. Patrick’s Day would not be completed without the ritual dances of the Masquarades. “The Masquarades are the richest expression of African folk art.” Today we honor the past in a new idea is being considered, to dedicate this time of year to heroes and Montserratians who have done great and useful service to the country.
We can still abandon us in our hearts yet we choose to live with Montserrat in our natures. We are living, eating and drinking history every day.
It is the week when Irish descendants everywhere “switch gears” to celebrate the tenth St. Patrick’s Day of the twenty first century. My island of Montserrat with its strong Irish tradition and history and has expanded the commemoration of March 17, 1978 to a week long celebration. Today begins a week long celebration as we observe the efforts of our Irish ancestor’s attempts to gain freedom; that led to the 1768 uprising. Three hundred years on and the spirit of the ancestor’s still lives on and this is echoed throughout the celebration of St. Patrick’s week. “As the wooden shamrock adorns the gable at the Government house many are busy in preparation for the week.” Custom officers are busy stamping the shamrock in many passports. Slave huts are being erected. The national dish goat water is being prepared. Both residents and visitors move to the beats of the bodhran, babla (drums.) The masquerades crack their whips. The mood is cheerful and contagious and we remember our heritage in varied and imaginative ways. Enjoy the video and view the list events scheduled for the week of celebrations.
Every Christmas Eve it is part of our culture in Montserrat to set the jumbie table (jumbie are ghosts). The jumbie table reveals a tradition held by my ancestors many years ago. When Montserratians (people from Montserrat) say jumbie table we are referring to the table set at Christmas Eve with all the food (roast pig, bread, blood pudding, duckna , black cake [fruit cake], pork, chicken, turkey, potato pudding, dasheen, yam, bananas, macaroni cheese, rice and peas, goat water, tart) and drinks; wine and spirits (water, sweet drink[soda], lemonade, Guinness, Vita malt, brandy, beer, ginger bear, ginger wine, Manischewitz wine and sorrel drink) that we would consume on Christmas Day. Just before the meal on Christmas day the spirits (liquor) is poured into the corner of house around the table for the ancestors.
As I explain the jumbie table I sit here compelled to note this. I am in a state of disbelief that my mother and my cousins both sixty plus stated they have never seen a jumbie table set by their parents. My cousin, who is my age, exclaimed “how old are you Brenda?” It seems as if anyone younger than my grandparent’s age (eighty plus years) have not shared this experience. Fortunately for me my cousins Grand Aunt is still alive, so she called her right after I spoke to her. She confirmed that I am not hallucinating or having an out of body experience by remembering the details of the jumbie table. I quickly learned that the term jumbie table is an endearing and commonly used expression but many of my generation and my mother’s generation have never seen a jumbie table set.
It is believed when the tradition was abandoned, and the jumbie table not set, the jumbie would come out making noise all night.
For me the jumbie table commands respect, in that it makes us feel pride in our heritage. It does not spell suspicion but admiration for the practices held long ago by our ancestors. I understand that it may be a part of our African heritage to carry out this practice. Our culture is rich in history and traditions and identifies us as a people. The fact that I am in my thirties and have witness the setting of the jumbie table for many Christmas by my grandparents is indeed a compliment and honor.
Ingredients
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